General Information
Overview
Mt. Everest, known in Nepal as Sagarmatha and in Tibet/China as Chomolungma/ Jolmolungma is the world’s highest mountain at 8849 meters. Standing at the border between Nepal-China, its south-west face lies in Nepal while the North and East faces lie in China. Administratively, Everest is located at the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality, Solukhumbu district of Koshi Province. Everest is surrounded by equally significant mountains like Changtse to the north, Lhotse to the south, Syartse to the East and Nuptse, Pumori to the west. Aesthetically Everest looks like a giant 3 faced pyramid.
The discovery of Himalaya in view and aim for mapping and surveying began strongly with the establishment of Great Trigonometrical Survey in 1802 from the southern plains of India. In 1847, a peak higher than the then believed highest peak Kanchenjunga, was discovered. The mountain was coded XV. Rigorous observations were made to confirm, and in 1849, the data from a closer survey led to suggestion that Peak XV was higher than Kanchenjunga. Waugh, having witnessed the frequent changes in highest mountains, did not announce immediately but made further stronger studies and observations. In 1852, Bengali mathematician Radhanath Sikdar claimed to have computed the height of Peak XV and claimed it was the highest mountain in the world. After 4 more years of verification, Waugh in 1856 announced the peak XV was the highest mountain with 29,002 ft. The search for names had begun as it appeared to be highest mountain and intensified in no time after the official announcement.
Everest has more than 60 names. The most common names being – Everest, Sagarmatha, Chomolungma, Jolmolungma, and Peak XV. The reason behind these many names is because the Great Trigonometric Survey wasn’t allowed entry to either Nepal or Tibet, and thus had to conduct observations from the southern Indian plains. This distant survey not only led to inaccurate data but a huge confusion in names. As Peak XV was considerably far from any of the settlements in Nepali lowlands, nobody had any strong information regarding the name of Everest. Brian Hodgson who was at Kathmandu during the survey of Everest was asked to find the local name of Everest. He asked the locals to find Deudhunga (Rock of the God) but GTS didn’t find it convincing.
Andrew Waugh, as early as 1849, wanted to name the mountain after his predecessor George Everest but attempted to find local names if there were any. With the official announcement of Peak XV’s height in 1856, Waugh proposed the name Everest as he still hadn’t found any local name. George Everest himself is said to have opposed the naming proposal as he believed mountain’s local name should be officiated. However, considering the remoteness of Everest and the tribes of people who lived below the mountain were not in contact with any of the lowlands, local name was not found. In 1865, the Royal Geographical Society officially accepted Mount Everest as the name.
The Tibetan name of Everest ‘Chomolungma’ means ‘Goddess Mother of the World’ as has its trace of existence as early as in the 1721 Kangxi Atlas. In 1733 a French geographer D’Anville’s map records Everest with name ‘Tchoumour Lancma’.
Baburam Acharya, the Nepali Historian Laureate, coined the term Sagarmatha meaning ‘Head of the Sky’ during the 1960s to give the mountain a Nepali name.
Climbing History and Ascents
The first attempt on Everest began after the Great War. In 1921, the first British reconnaissance expedition explored the possibilities of climbing through the north and east faces. They found a viable route on the head of east Rongbuk glacier up through the headwall up the north ridge and through the northeast ridge to the summit. They attempted a full-fledged expedition in 1922 but it met with failure and the death of 6 Sherpas. 1924 was more disastrous, as the famed Mallory and Irvine were lost to Everest. Multiple expeditions happened afterwards starting from 1933 through the 30s and 40s but none succeeded. Finally, Nepal opened up in 1949 and the expedition had a new face to work on. The British immediately secured climbing permit from the Nepal side for 1950 and 51. A reconnaissance was made in the 50 which had a good view of the entrance to the western cwm. The next year, another reconnaissance expedition succeeded to reach the lip of the cwm and viewed the gentle slopped valley that led to the Lhotse face. The Swiss secured permit for 1952 and with Tenzing Norgay, Raymond Lambert reached up to the south summit when they couldn’t tackle a steep couloir (later named as Hillary step) and descended. They reached highest ever. This was Tenzing’s 6th time on Everest.
British expedition of 14 members including now Sirdar Tenzing, and the leader J. Hunt was on the move for Everest. The route was via the glacier of Lhotse and the Lhotse Face; Camp 8 was erected on the South Col. The first assault party, R. C. Evans and T. D. Bourdillon, reached the South Summit (8765m.). Due to the failure of Bourdillon’s close system oxygen apparatus, the duo descended. The second assault party, Hillary and Tenzing, from Camp 9 (8500m.) reached the summit May 29 at around 11:30 am. This was Tenzing’s 7th expedition to the mountain. Thus, history was made.
NNMGA in Everest
Climbing Information
| Normal Route | Other Routes | |||||
| Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer | Spring | Autumn | Winter/Summer | |
| Nepali (NRS) | 75,000 | 37,500 | 18,250 | 60,000 | 30,000 | 15,000 |
| Foreigners (USD) | 11,000 | 5,500 | 2,750 | 11,000 | 5,000 | 2,500 |