Majhphant - 3, Parbat, Nepal
Vinayak Jaya Malla ~ My Story
Certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA/UIAGM), I have had an intimate relationship with the Himlayas since growing up in a farming family in the foothills of the Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri mountain ranges of mid-western Nepal.
From the time I decided to pursue a career in mountaineering, I have dedicated myself to taking my profession to the highest level. Beginning as a porter, self-motivation and personal initiative led me to become a trekking guide before pursuing my IFMGA certification. I have since become a Mountain Leader Instructor, Examiner and am trained in Helicopter Long Line Rescue.
Excelling as a high altitude freelance guide with a strength as a technical climber, I have led successful expeditions on Everest (8 848 m), Lhotse (8 516 m), Manaslu (8 156 m), Ama Dablam (6 812 m) and an abundance of other Himalayan peaks.
My route towards achieving the highest international guiding qualification has included a trail from being a successful elite sport climbing competitor to qualifications in route setting and judging.
With a passion to develop ice and sport climbing in Nepal, I founded the Nepal Climbing Team (NCT). While serving as president of the NCT and continuing to lead expeditions, I instruct for the Nepal Mountaineering Association, Nepal Mountaineering Instructors’ Association, Nepal Mountain Guides Association, and the Nepal Police Rescue. I along with the NCT executive team have launched an annual international Nepal Ice Climbing Festival. Beyond the borders of Nepal, I have experience climbing in the European Alps as well as India where I am a member and volunteer instructor with the International Federation for Climbing and Mountaineering.
Come follow along the climbs and peaks of my story on Instagram
1 | 2011 | Baden Powell | Japanese | Autumn | 2867 | Normal Route | Summited |
2 | 2012 | Island Peak | International | Spring | 6189 | Normal Route | Summited |
3 | 2013 | Island Peak | International | Spring | 6189 | Normal Route | Summited |
4 | 2014 | Lobuche Peak | International | Spring | 6119 | Normal Route | Summited |
5 | 2014 | Ama Dablam | International | Autumn | 6812 | Normal Route | Summited |
6 | 2015 | Larke Peak | International | Autumn | 6476 | Normal Route | Summited |
7 | 2017 | Manaslu | International | Autumn | 8156 | Normal Route | Summited |
8 | 2017 | Everest | Indian | Spring | 8848 | Nepal Side | Summited |
9 | 2018 | Lhotse | International | Spring | 8516 | Normal Route | Summited |
10 | 2018 | Ama Dablam | Chinese | Autumn | 6812 | Normal Route | Summited |
11 | 2019 | Everest | Chinese | Spring | 8848 | Nepal Side | Summited |
MOUNTAINEERING EXPERIENCE
Year Competition
Climbmandu Carnival
1st IFSC National Open Climbing Competition
Inter-college sports climbing competition Wall Spiders
2014 Open Invitational Sport Climbing (lead) Competition Heritage Vertical Onsight
3r d Park Young Seok open climbing (lead) competition 2016 Monsoon Madness Lead Climbing Competition
Position Secured
3rd position in Speed and Dyno Category
4th Position in Lead and Speed Category
2nd position in Lead climbing
1st Position in Lead and Speed Category
1st Position 2nd Position 3r d Position 1st Position
2012
Year Competition